I’m still dreaming of the autumn colours in Tuscany — the rolling landscapes, the hilltop villages, the incredible food, and the unforgettable setting of Hortulanus. But what lingers most are the new friendships I've formed: from the quiet moments sketching side-by-side, the laughter over long dinners, the shared stories, the hot-tub, sauna, polar plunge combo (you had to be there!) and the way a small group of like-minded people can turn a week in a beautiful place into something truly special.
A huge thank you...
Before I dive into the day-by-day stories, I just want to say a heartfelt thank you to my small group who joined me on this magical adventure. Their enthusiasm for sketching and exploring and capturing our trip in colour sparked something in me too. I've come away with my creative energy on fire! And a bunch of new friends!
To our generous hosts, Shifra and Ale — nothing was ever too much trouble. We were thoroughly spoilt, and our dinner conversations will stay with us for a long time. To Cristina, our brilliant cook, whose food we’ll be talking about for years (I now know what risotto is really supposed to taste like — not to mention all the other home-cooked delights!). And to Emiliano, the manager, who quietly made sure everything ran smoothly from start to finish. I can’t wait to return — pencil in October 2027, everyone!
And lastly, to my husband David — who finally joined me on a retreat (yay!) and documented the week with all the behind-the-scenes photos and videos I never have time to take while teaching.
Here’s a little peek into what we got up to, day by day…
DAY 1 - HORTULANUS & IL GIARDINO DI DANIEL SPOERRI
We couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful start to the week. Clear skies, warm autumn sunshine, and the whole of the Hortulanus grounds and studio to ourselves. Where to begin? With a wander, of course — discovering the treasures that would become the backdrop to our days: ancient olive trees, lotus ponds, sweeping vistas, an infinity pool, wooden bridges, vineyards, pergolas, tall cypresses… honestly, it felt like heaven.
We spent the morning sketching in the gardens, easing in gently and warming up with studies of the autumn trees — letting the colours and shapes start to loosen our hands.
In the afternoon we took a short 10-minute drive to the sculpture gardens of Daniel Spoerri — an expansive, open-air museum filled with contemporary art tucked into hillsides, fields, and pathways. Everyone set off to explore at their own pace for a while (there’s so much to discover), and I now have about a million photos waiting to be turned into sketches back home. We gathered later beside one of the ponds, surrounded by sculptures, to sketch, chat, and compare notes about what had inspired us.
What a beginning! Golden light, easy company, and a dinner afterwards that felt like pure comfort — the perfect way to end our first day.
DAY 2 - PIENZA
Our adventure for the day was an excursion to the UNESCO World Heritage town of Pienza — and what a wonderful place it is. We began by simply wandering: tiny cobbled alleyways, quiet and bustling piazzas, and incredible views stretching out from the top of the old city walls.
When we visit somewhere new, I always encourage everyone to explore first, to soak it in — and then we pause together to talk about what scene might best tell the story of the day. It can feel a little overwhelming at first (so many beautiful possibilities!), and that’s part of the excitement. New sights, new sounds, creative energy everywhere — we want to paint everything. Taking that short moment to breathe and choose our story makes all the difference.
In the end, everyone settled on the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, viewed from the city walls. There was beautiful light falling across the church, tall cypress trees framing the scene, and — very important — a comfortable spot where we could spread out without getting in anyone’s way. Perfect.
After a couple of hours our tummies started rumbling, the boys joined us, and we went in search of the perfect café — and we found it. The tiniest little place I’ve ever eaten in: just four tables, run by a husband-and-wife team. Cosy, friendly, and the food was out of this world.
After lunch, we wandered again and chose a quiet back street where everyone picked something small to sketch — little details to finish the story on the page. Each person chose something different, and I loved seeing the variety of moments captured in colour.
Then it was back “home” for dinner, and later some of us drifted back to the studio for more sketching — holiday mode officially in full swing.
DAY 3 - STUDIO DAY WITH AN OLIVE OIL BOTTLE
Day three dawned stormy and unsettled — the perfect excuse for some cosy studio time. Hortulanus has the most beautiful studio I’ve ever painted in. It was once the old tasting room, and now it’s warm, spacious, and filled with lovely light. Behind it is the limoneria, and in front the windows open to the infinity pool, rolling hills, and the hilltop village of Seggiano. I know — wow!
So what became the “story” for the day? After a chat, everyone chose… an olive oil bottle. Stay with me! We arrived at Hortulanus the day after the olive harvest, and our very first taste of the oil was when it had just been pressed. Since then, that same bottle had appeared at every meal. It had quietly become part of the narrative of our week.
I don’t think I’ve ever done a still life on a retreat before, but it was such fun. We set up a table in the studio with the bottle and some olive branches I picked just outside. Then it was all about painting glass, reflections, and capturing that exact colour of the oil — liquid gold. It was an incredibly joyful morning.
After lunch we drove up the hill to Bakkanali vineyard for wine tasting. Our host was warm and welcoming, and I’d thoroughly recommend both the visit and the wines.
Then it was back to the studio to finish sketches — or begin new ones from our growing collection of photos.
Should I mention dinner again? Probably not, I don't want to make you too jealous ;-)
DAY 4 - MONTE AMIATA & VIEWS OF CASTELLO DI POTENTINO
Just half an hour’s drive from Hortulanus is Monte Amiata, home to one of the largest beech forests in Europe. At the top you find towering beech trees; lower down the slopes, chestnut forests. While we were there, the autumn colours were in full glory. I’ve never seen anything quite like it — thick carpets of leaves along the roads and under the trees, and the pale trunks of the beeches standing out in contrast.
It was chilly at that altitude, but we braved it with sketchbooks and pencils, stopping on a couple of short walks to capture outlines and ideas, and taking lots of photos to finish later back in the studio.
After lunch the sun returned, so we headed up to the lookout at Hortulanus to sketch the rolling landscape — vineyards, autumn tones, and a bird’s-eye view of Castello di Potentino. There are a few theory lessons I like to weave into retreats — linear perspective, tonal values, composition, colour mixing — and this scene was perfect for one of my favourites: aerial perspective.
And after dinner? Well, this was the night of the hot tub–sauna–polar plunge shenanigans. Let’s just say: you had to be there. 😉
DAY 5 - SEGGIANO
I always love the last day or two of a retreat. By this point, everyone is confident, their voices are strong, and I know that with just the tiniest nudge they can tackle something complicated — make their own composition and colour decisions, choose the story they want to tell, and more often than not finish a whole sketch on location. This is exactly what I hope to see. Now they’re ready to take their sketchbooks with them on future journeys.
We spent our final morning sitting among old olive trees, sketching the Tuscan domes and church towers of Seggiano. It may have looked complicated, but everyone created beautiful, personal sketches.
Then it was back to the studio for our final session — tying up any loose ends, finishing spreads, and then tidying up before laying everything out for a little “exhibition”. Me? Proud beyond words.
Our last dinner together was full of happiness, laughter, and more courses than I can possibly remember… and then came the bittersweet goodbyes.
Five days sounds like plenty when you’re planning, but in reality they rush by. Even with sketching before breakfast and after dinner, there are always more scenes you wish you could paint, places you’d love to revisit, ideas still waiting to be explored. By this stage everyone is properly “sketching fit” and the creative flow is in full flood. They say all good things must come to an end — but I don't know why!!
Now we’re still in touch on our WhatsApp group, sharing little snippets of life beyond the retreat and the sketches we’re continuing from our photos. And I know we’ll meet again for another adventure — this story isn’t over yet.
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