recap! our art retreat in marrakech, morocco

A week in Marrakesh: sketching, souks, and golden sunsets

I've been home a week now, and I'm still not quite back. Part of me is still sitting in front of the Koutoubia Mosque as the light turns golden, still hearing the call to prayer echo across the square, still smelling the spices in the souks. Marrakesh is still on my mind.

This was my first retreat of the year, and what a way to begin. I wanted to write it all down while it's still fresh — the sketches, the people, the moments that caught us off guard.

The second-to-last night: The Koutoubia at sunset

I have to start with the second-to-last evening, because it was one of those moments I'll carry with me for a long time.

We came to sketch the Koutoubia Mosque just before sunset. We arrived an hour before sunset to have our drawings done before the light changed — and the moment everything turned golden, we all put aside our pencils and reached for our watercolours. The whole mosque was bathed in this warm, amber light, and everyone was sitting there, quietly painting, completely absorbed.

And then the call to prayer began.

I can only describe it as a goosebump moment. The sound rang out across the square just as we were finishing our sketches, and straight after, the lights came on and the mosque was beautifully lit against the evening sky. A perfect, unrepeatable moment — and a wonderful last plein air session of the week.

The last night

As for the last night — I'm not telling! What happened that evening blew everyone away, and I have no doubt it will be talked about for years. Some things are better kept as a surprise, and this is one of them. You'll just have to come and find out for yourself ;-)

Into the Atlas Mountains

Earlier in the week, we spent a day in the Atlas Mountains, and it was breathtaking. It's springtime, and the mountains are still snow-capped, with fresh greens coming through — such a treat for those of us who'd just come out of winter. We sketched a sweeping valley vista with snow-capped peaks in the distance and a traditional Berber village as our focal point.

On the same day, we visited a workshop where artisans make traditional Berber rugs — 45,000 of them in their store. Just imagine the colours. They walked us through how the rugs are made, the traditions behind different regional styles, and needless to say, a few people left with a rug tucked under their arm.

Trial by fire in the souks

On day one, we didn't ease in gently. Harrison and a local guide took us straight into the heart of the souks, and honestly, I can't quite explain the experience in words — you just have to do it. It's vibrant, loud, overwhelming in the best possible way, full of incredible artisans at work: leather, metal, ceramics, spice.

Some of us were brave enough to sit down and sketch right there in the souks. We found a spot outside a traditional pharmacy, surrounded by bags of spices, rose petals, and minerals, and settled in to paint. Others went inside to learn about traditional Moroccan medicine. We were buzzing afterwards. That particular kind of exhilaration — slightly terrified, completely alive — is something I always hope people take home from a retreat.

Exotic, colourful, Jardin Majorelle

We also sketched and explored in Jardin Majorelle - a beautiful exotic garden restored by Yves Sant Laurent. Very busy with tourists, we split up to find nooks to sketch and it was fun to take a walk and find an artist around every corner. Many people stopped to chat and take our photos. We became one of the main attractions that day I think :-)

Days at home and in the studio

A retreat wouldn't be complete without plenty of studio time. Every afternoon we gathered in the studio for demos and for working on unfinished projects. The domain itself was super beautiful with olive groves and many birds including peacocks, guinea fowls and turkeys. A roof top infinity pool with views to the distant Atlas Mountains (and early morning sightings of hot air balloons), meant plenty of tranquil time with our sketchbooks too. Glass of wine or cup of coffee close at hand, depending on the time of day.

Strangers, friends or family?

This retreat was a little different to my usual one, because almost everyone had been on a retreat either with me or with Perigord Retreats before. It was like introducing distant family to each other and that made it extra special. We spent a week painting in beautiful places, sharing meals, sharing stories, and laughing a lot. On our WhatsApp group the chats and stories are still flowing. We miss each other! I know we'll paint together again some day and that my family is growing.

Already counting down

Our sketchbooks are full. We've got a thousand photos between us. And I already know I've only scratched the surface of what Marrakesh has to offer.

I'm going back next year, and I can't wait.

Interested in joining me in Marrakech next year? View details for 2027