Trees & Foliage

From distant forest to foreground feature tree

Before you paint: observe the tree

The instinct is to grab the dominant colour and start. Instead: look carefully at the reference first. A maple tree has golds, deep pinkish reds, and near-violet in the deepest shadows. The eye sees more than the brain first reports.

  • Study the overall silhouette — where does it break away from the general mass?
  • Note which side is heavier, which direction branches lean
  • Look for gaps — sky holes in the canopy that stop it reading as a solid blob
  • Identify the light source before mixing a single colour
Avoid patterns. The most common mistake is a regular, repeating edge on both sides of the tree. Follow what's actually there.

Autumn trees

Work wet-into-wet with bold colour. Looseness is a virtue — every painting comes out differently and that's part of the charm.

Maple (red and violet tones)

Poplar (yellows and oranges)

Technique

  1. Wet the entire tree and sky area together
  2. Drop a pale sky wash across the whole area first
  3. Drop tree colours one at a time while wet — lightest first, darkest last
  4. Leave gaps — sky holes where birds can fly through
  5. Once at the right dampness, splatter tree colours for leaf texture
  6. Once dry, add trunk and branches with a rigger or dagger brush

Winter trees (bare)

Bare winter trees are about structure and atmosphere — the branching pattern, the texture of bark, and how they dissolve into a cold background.

Main trees vs background trees

  • Main foreground trees: painted into a still-damp background so edges soften; dark mix of quinacridone sienna + ultramarine; carry trunks down into the ground to anchor them
  • Background trees: lighter, warmer colours (natural sienna, pale grey); progressively vaguer as they recede; some can be suggested with the credit card lift technique

Branches

Use a rigger or the tip of a dagger brush. Start from the base working upward — marks get progressively thinner. Hold the brush at the back of the handle for more natural marks. Pen work can extend the finest twigs where even a fine brush is too wide.

Distant trees and forests

Distant trees follow the same rule as all background elements: lighter, cooler, less saturated, less detailed. This difference is what creates depth.

A conifer slope

  1. Back trees (touching sky): indigo + plenty of water — blue-grey, very pale
  2. Move forward: add sap green in increasing amounts, darker and richer
  3. Foreground trees: very dark indigo + sap green, barely any water — individual shapes emerge
  4. Keep the skyline irregular — varied heights, no two the same

A single wash, worked wet, can describe an entire forest slope convincingly. Resist the urge to paint individual trees in the background.

Adding a figure for scale

A tiny figure at the base of a large tree immediately conveys scale. Keep it very simple.

Figure formula

  • Rectangular body with flat shoulders
  • Two legs — one slightly shorter to suggest walking
  • Short arms; oblong head
  • Keep the head small — gap between shoulder and chin should roughly equal the head width. An oversized head reads as a child
  • Use a cool colour (turquoise, blue jeans) against warm autumn tones
  • Add a small shadow beneath to place the figure firmly on the ground